It’s inevitable… if you own a Honda EU2000i generator, sometime during your ownership you are going to have to replace the starter rope. We’ve heard from other owners that their starter rope frayed and had to eventually be replaced. And, so it happened to us. At first glance this will seem like a daunting task, and rest assured… it is. š But the end result is achievable.
So now we are about to take you through our journey, step-by-step, and show you how painless this process really is. Hopefully doing this yourself will save you a few bucks from a visit to your local authorized Honda service center. So let’s get on with it.
We’d like to credit tripledir on the RV.Net Open Roads Forum for their instructions that were instrumental in our success.
Disclaimer: We are not responsible in any way, shape, or form if you mess up your generator by following the steps below. But they worked for us. š
The basic tools you will need are:
10mm socket (deep socket) with ratchet
10mm wrench
(2) Philips screwdrivers; one with a P2, and one with a P3 head.
3′-4′ of ParaCord
Dab of Axle Grease
If all goes smoothly and according to plan, the above items will be all you need for this project. However, we hit a few snags along the way. Mainly being unable to easily remove some of the screws and stripping two of the Philips drives in the process. Unfortunately, since we live in a remote location and being an overcast day (which didn’t help our solar panels) our alternative power was limited, and we ended up drilling out the two screw heads. So we were left with two missing screws when we reassembled the covers. Just a heads up. Okay. onward.
Overview: Left Side Cover & Maintenance CoverOverview: Front CoverOverview: Right Side CoverOverview: Rear CoverStep 1: Remove Maintenance CoverStep 2: Remove Back Cover – (4) Philips P3 ScrewsStep 3: Remove Front Cover – (4) Philips P3 ScrewsStep 4: Remove Feet – (4) 10mm BoltsStep 5: Disconnect (2) Fuel Drain Tubes. Pull up from bottom. See Step 6 photo.Step 6: Remove Left Side Under PlateStep 6a: Left Side Under Plate RemovedStep 6b: Remove Right Side Under PlateStep 7: Remove Handle Screws on Left Side Cover – (2) P3 Philips ScrewsStep 8: Remove Screw Above Starter Handle on Left Side Cover – (1) P2 PhilipsStep 9: Remove Long Bolts on Bottom Right Side Cover – (2) 10mm Bolts NOTE: USE A DEEP 10mm SOCKETStep 10: View of Left Side Cover Removed NOTE: Examine how the Covers are connected together around the frame and fuel tank. This was one of the difficult tasks of reassembling the covers.Step 11: View of Right Side Cover RemovedStep 12: Locate Fuel Tubes on Left SideStep 12a: Slide Clip Back and Disconnect Top Fuel TubeStep 12b: Top Fuel Tube DisconnectedStep 12c: Bottom Fuel Tube DisconnectedStep 13: Disconnect Lead to the Engine SwitchStep 14: Remove Left Front Frame Screws – (2) P3 Screws – NOTE: Do Not Disconnect Longer Fuel Tube. Just lay frame aside once screws are removed. There is no photo of Right Front Frame (1) P3 Screw. So wing it yourself.Step 14a: View of Left Front Frame – NOTE: Do Not Disconnect Longer Fuel Tube. Just lay frame aside once screws are removed.Step15: Remove Starter Grip Cover and Untie/Cut Frayed Rope KnotStep 16: Remove Left & Right Front Frame Brackets & Fuel Tank – (set aside the fuel tank bracket -On/Off- pull cord bracket as a unit)Step 16a: Remove Left & Right Front Frame Brackets & Fuel Tank – ANOTHER VIEWStep 17: Remove Bolt #1 on Starter Case (10mm)Step 17a: Remove Bolt #2 on Starter Case (10mm)Step 17b: Remove Bolt #3 on Starter Case (10mm)Step 18: Remove Starter CaseStep 18a: Thread Broken Cord Through Hole and Pull Until it is all the Way Extended and Knot is Adjacent to the Outlet Hole (i.e. Aligned Holes). Then insert a small screw driver through cage to keep Starter Reel in Place.Step 18b: Remove Broken CordStep 18c: Insert New Cord – Note: (1) Screw Driver Insert to Hold Starter Reel, (2) Put a small light dab of Axle Grease Here, (3) Aligned Holes. Give the Starter Reel another Wind before adding New Cord Since You Probably Lost a Wind When Your Old Cord Broke.Step 18d: New Cord KnottedStep 19: Attach Starter CaseStep 20: Thread Rope Through Starter Rope Guide and Knot End to Starter Grip.
Reassemble by reverse order.
We hope these photos and instructions helped. Please let us know if they did. We’d appreciate it.
We also have the Honda EU2000i Repair Manual (Not the Owners Manual) available in PDF. Download it here. (Please don’t hotlink this, or we’ll have to remove it, and you’ll spoil it for everyone else.)
You lovely, saintly human being. Mine is a eu1000i, but with your photos, I’m sure I can adapt the instructions for minor differences. Thank you! Cord is about to fail, and I do not have the confidence in my knowledge to attempt this without photos. Thank you so much for taking the time to illustrate this to “the rest of us.” š
Thank You so much for taking the time to post these clear photos and lookouts. I would probably have tried to take the pull cord assembly off without taking the covers off and would have spent hours eventually taking them all off one by one and experiencing a very frusterating learning curve. Thank You so much!
The bolts holding the front frame would not budge, but once the top of the frame was separated, the plastic frame was able to be bent enough to move the tank away from the starter case. This was also important, since the tank was almost full and I did not want to disconnect the hoses. I also did not remove the wires from any of the terminals, just pushing the front panel out. this gave me enough room to get the starter case removed using a box wrench. This took a little time to turn these bolts but kept more of the generator together which saves some time.
Your step by step was very helpful!
The pictures were very helpful. Thank you. I spent all day today working on my Hondas. I replaced the pull cords on both of my EU2000’s. While I was at it I used the air compressor to blow out years of dirt and grime, and changed the oil and spark plugs. I also cleaned the air filters, carb-sprayed the carbs, the chokes and the on/off switches and gave both my gennys an overall cleaning. Seven hours well spent.
The first one took about 5 hours and after having done that one the second one was easy and only took about 2 hours. Of course that time included a couple of good cigars, getting side tracked on other little garage projects and a trip to the hardware and auto parts stores. š It was a productive day. Again, thanks for the write up.
Hi Chris, Glad to hear you had a productive day. We hope you also checked your Spark Arrester for any build-up. That can also hinder performance. Thanks for visiting.
Just a line to say thank you for these instruction on replacement of pull cord. Every place I called to get repaired they said one to two weeks out. I boat every weekend need Honda generator for air condition. Anyone can follow along very easy.
Thank you again you saved my weekend.
Cord project went great! Excellent instructions! However, after starting, it no longer has any output. Double checked all electrical connectors, took it all apart again, and still no luck. Typical …
Thanks for the detailed instructions, the pictures are great. Saved me a lot of time. I was able to skip steps 12 & 13 (removing the fuel tubes and connector) there is enough room to get every thing out with them still connected. The frame bolts were very tight in step 14, I needed an impact driver to get one out. I also added 2 turns to the starter coil, 1 wasn’t enough.
Hmm… did you clean the air filter? Also, always use a high octane gas and try adding some Sea Foam Motor Treatment to help get the gunk out.
Thanks for visiting.
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this detailed descriptionfor us all! I just changed the cord on mine and without your directions I don’t think I’d have been able to do it. Bless you!
Yes, really… Big Thank You! Being in Big Bend no dealers around here for sure. We have not tackled it yet but will very soon… Definitely feel more confident now.
A big happy shout out to you for your preparation of this information, and for making it available. Your clear written guidance coupled with the photographs made the change out of the starter rope as easy as child’s play. The hardest part was finding a 10mm socket! And oh…the side panel cowlings went back together easily enough with some manipulation, squeezing twisting and the occasional expletive! Thanks so much!
I understand about the expletives. My wife told me I had to make dinner for every one I spouted. Needless to say she ate good for a few days after that starter rope replacement.
We are sailing in Haiti and I had not enough confidence to take the Honda Generator apart to fix the broken starter cord till I found your website. I copied it onto my iPad and followed your instructions step by step. Two things threw me for a loop for a short period. The first one was Step 7/10. The rubber insert around the handle screws rolled around the boat, but was found before I started putting things back together. It took me only a short time but then I figured where it belonged. The second item was Step 14, Remove Left Front Frame Screws. Because we have had the generator around salt water for several years, they did not want to come undone and the result was a shattering of the plastic frame. All is glued back together with Max1 glue (found at the Miami boat show), but a review of the frame showed that it could probably have been left alone and the tank removed by slightly bending the Left and Right frame parts apart. Before reassembly, all the screws and bolts received a good amount of Tef Gel, so the next time it will come apart nice and easy.
Anyway, your write-up made it a very doable project. I am very much indebted to you for showing such a clear way of repairing the generator. Thanks a million.
Thanks for the step by step instructions. The pictures help me alot.
With the tight phillips screws I have a certain amount of success using a 3/8 socket and a cordless impact.It hits the screws hard and fast. With minimal damage.
Great Directions!!! Was able to do this in about a little over an hour! My handle screws were on the right side not the left, but no big deal! Thank You!!!!!
Ours has broken in the middle of nowhere, but luckily we have internet (high gain aerial fixed to the side of the caravan) and these instructions. Bottom frame Phillips studs are however not moving so presently have them soaking in WD40. Fingers crossed. May need to be brutal – drill them out! Had to improvise for the long 10 mm socket as had no extension for small 3/8 drive sockets. A large blade screwdriver did the trick.
By the way we are in Western Australia. I broke the plastic base trying to undo the Phillips studs, but some wire and the drill gave an adequate fix. Used an old shoe lace as the replacement cord. All working well now.
Thanks for the detailed tutorial…..I haven’t tried it yet, but having to pay $150 to have
the local Honda motorcycle dealer do it is a great incentive!
Also read all the previous replies for tips.
I like Bob’s idea of using a shoestring….Aussie ingenuity!
I’m up for it now.
Thanks mate! š
Thank you for this information. I live a couple miles from the nearest road and 100 miles from the nearest Honda parts store. My cord broke, on a Sunday of all days, and I had it fixed in about 1.5 hours using your instructions.
60 minutes flat, thank you! My only input is that you don’t need a deep socket 10mm, just regular socket with an extension works fine. And a battery-powered impact driver works even better. Thanks again!
Thanks for the instructions and great photos! Much better than watching someone drone on for 45 minutes on YouTube. However, it would be good if we could address the real problem. Anybody know a good way to keep the cord from fraying at the starter case port? Or know of a cord that will take it? Otherwise, we all should plan on shortening or replacing it every 200-300 hours due to the vibration of the port ring against the cord. Just a little flaw in the design. Someone posted a “sort of” fix on YouTube with a nylon patch wrapped with thread on the cord at the point of contact but it doesn’t look like it will last.
Thanks again. Gotta go change both my cords now. If I figure out a fix, I’ll post it.
Extremely helpful and great guidance for doing this fix. I have this page bookmarked since I am sure this will be needed again. Just a useful note for everyone, I saw the fuel line (the long one that was left connected when the fuel tank was removed) has a bad rub spot on it. Wrapped it with some old heater hose to lengthen the life of the fuel line. This generator rides on back of a semi so I can’t afford for it to be at a dealer for a week or two. Thanks a bunch guys!!!
I am at our camp in Maine and last night at 5:30 the generator stopped. I walked over to restart it and the pull cord had frayed. I quickly found this site and it saved me. There are no stores that I could had gotten to for replacement line (used the paracord) and I was running out of daylight. Two things; you can use a regular 10mm socket vs. an deep socket, but you need an extension ( note: a Husqvarna adjustment tool also happens to be 10mm) and also the frame screws that held the fuel tank in place required my cordless drill in hammer mode. I think they had Loctite on the screws. It took me two hours from start to finish, which was 30 minutes before dark. Thank you very much for the information and the shop manual!!!
Well, itās Walt again. After two years and about 1000 hours more use, the pull cord had to be replaced tonight. The outer jacket of the 550 cord wore through and I was holding on by strands. This time I stopped at the store and picked up some actual pull cord before the final break. I put the generator up on the bench and completely replaced the cord, from start to finish in 55 minutes. After taking 2 hours the first time and I had printed out your instructions, it was quick and easy.
Thank you once again for a great set of instructions.
I took the cover off my generator this spring only to find mice had nested inside the bloody thing and ate through the pull cord as well as some of the wiring. The instructions and photos here were an indispensable help in getting the thing apart as well as back together. THnks so much
Thanks for the great pictorial instructions. It works much better for me using a page like yours than trying to figure it out watching a video.
I didn’t have to disconnect any of the fuel lines or wire connectors. Didn’t even remove the frame screws. I was able to sneak a 10mm combination wrench between the starter reel and the fuel tank to remove the attachment screws. Then I was able to work the reel out of the right side to replace the cord. Got it all back together with no extra screws laying around!
Again, Thanks! My generator is running right now, recharging my RV batteries down here in Arizona.
And one tip for you. I’ve found that there’s an area that wears, 3 or 4 inches from the pull handle. When it starts looking like it might break, I just pull that worn spot through the handle and re-tie it. The pull cord is shorter, but still works, and will double the life of the pull cord.
U do not have to take the entire Gen apart. My goodness. Take from cover off. Reach threw the side and unplug the front cover. Take two handle screws out. Open it enough to pull tank out the way. And u can get to the three bolts on the real. Fix then replace.
#1 took about 65 minutes, #2 took 45, and #3 took exactly 30. Easy peasy after the first one! Thanks again for the great write up and link to the Bible!
Yeah, good stuff. I kind of like availing myself of both written documentation and youtube videos, where possible. My cord finally broke at a bad time, of course, about a month ago, but at least I wasn’t surprised. I am gearing up to do the job soon, thus my finding your nice documentation here. I’ve split it (them, actually) all open multiple times already though, for this and that, so I’m dreading it far more than fearing it. I’m pretty detail oriented though, so I like to have my ducks in a row on things. Which brings me to my only gripe about your documentation. You should have given the Honda part number for the actual Honda replacement cord for this exact Honda generator, which is, I have found, 28462-Z07-004, so that those not forced, or inclined, to improvise varying degrees of substandard result, can easily just order the correct cord meeting the exact specifications of the Honda engineers who designed it. Shoelaces in a pinch, sure, but otherwise, engineering is a precision thing, and thus the more precise one is in pursuing it, the better one’s results (there are many different types of “paracord”, for example). Anyway, providing it sure would have saved me a lot of time and hassle, and seems like a glaring omission to me, at least. Hopefully my providing it here, will save other less “hold my beer while I git er done” types some aggravation. Notwithstanding, shortly after my cord arrives, I’ll git er done myself… correctly. š
I replaced mine in June 2016 with 550 para cord. It was after hours on the weekend. Needed to improvise and overcome. It has worked faithfully, however, the outer jacket is starting to fray. So I need to do it again. This time I will use the correct cord.
So far Walt, out paracord has held up. Thanks for visiting.
anyone seeing this the permanent fix is dyneema cord talked about elswear make sure to read up on special knot needed for dyneema this cord will outlast the genarator
I’ve been a professional mechanic for 30 years. I’ve never had to deal with these things in my life until now. Thanks a ton for the great post! Saved my life!
Thank you for the great instructions! Without them it would have taken me many hours to get to the starter reel. I will be inspecting that cord for fraying from now on and I’ll tie it off a little shorter until it’s too short!
Update: I have an EU2000I purchased in 2013. Between the left and right side handles at the back end there is a shock absorber assembly that can come loose and bounce away when the sides are separated. There is provision for same at the front end but the ass’y was not present.
Thanks so much for the detailed pictures.
They were very helpful to replace the pull rope.
I too did not need to remove the gas tank but I had a helper.
My son replaced the pull cord on his Honda EU2000i, now it won’t start could it be an electrical connector he missed when reassembling it. Any thoughts would be very helpful.
What size pull cord do I need to replace mine? I have the same eu2000i on the generator but I can’t find the specs on the diameter and length of the cord.
We used regular paracord that you can get at any hardware store. The length is determined against the one you are replacing with a few extra inches for good measure. Hope that helps.
I have used 550 Para cord in the past, the first time, but replaced it the following year with the cord from a local chainsaw shop that sell it by the foot. I just told them what I had and he pulled it off a spool. It has been going strong not for several years.
It’s inevitable… if you own a Honda EU2000i generator, sometime during your ownership you are going to have to replace the starter rope. We’ve heard from other owners that their starter rope frayed and had to eventually be replaced. And, so it happened to us. At first glance this will seem like a daunting task, and rest assured… it is. š But the end result is achievable.
Montana Off-Grid Living 
You lovely, saintly human being. Mine is a eu1000i, but with your photos, I’m sure I can adapt the instructions for minor differences. Thank you! Cord is about to fail, and I do not have the confidence in my knowledge to attempt this without photos. Thank you so much for taking the time to illustrate this to “the rest of us.” š
Glad you found this useful. Thanks for visiting.
Thank You so much for taking the time to post these clear photos and lookouts. I would probably have tried to take the pull cord assembly off without taking the covers off and would have spent hours eventually taking them all off one by one and experiencing a very frusterating learning curve. Thank You so much!
Hi Matt, Glad to know the photos helped out. Thanks for visiting.
thanks a million!!!
your info is great
You’re just what I needed just when i needed the help! Thanks a million!! Well done!!!
Hi Brian, Glad to be of some help. Best Wishes!
The bolts holding the front frame would not budge, but once the top of the frame was separated, the plastic frame was able to be bent enough to move the tank away from the starter case. This was also important, since the tank was almost full and I did not want to disconnect the hoses. I also did not remove the wires from any of the terminals, just pushing the front panel out. this gave me enough room to get the starter case removed using a box wrench. This took a little time to turn these bolts but kept more of the generator together which saves some time.
Your step by step was very helpful!
You are braver than we were. Glad it worked for you.
Thanks for the great writeup.
Very useful.
Thanks Mike. We’re glad the post was useful. Thanks for visiting our blog.
The pictures were very helpful. Thank you. I spent all day today working on my Hondas. I replaced the pull cords on both of my EU2000’s. While I was at it I used the air compressor to blow out years of dirt and grime, and changed the oil and spark plugs. I also cleaned the air filters, carb-sprayed the carbs, the chokes and the on/off switches and gave both my gennys an overall cleaning. Seven hours well spent.
The first one took about 5 hours and after having done that one the second one was easy and only took about 2 hours. Of course that time included a couple of good cigars, getting side tracked on other little garage projects and a trip to the hardware and auto parts stores. š It was a productive day. Again, thanks for the write up.
Hi Chris, Glad to hear you had a productive day. We hope you also checked your Spark Arrester for any build-up. That can also hinder performance. Thanks for visiting.
Just a line to say thank you for these instruction on replacement of pull cord. Every place I called to get repaired they said one to two weeks out. I boat every weekend need Honda generator for air condition. Anyone can follow along very easy.
Thank you again you saved my weekend.
HI Robert,
We’re happy to keep you boating, and that you were able to make the repairs yourself. It’s a great feeling, isn’t it?
Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. YOU ROCK
Captain Tom
west coast florida
riversidetoursinc.com
This was great! Thanks so much. The pictures made it so easy. And now we have a pink cord. Haha.
That’s great, Andy. Glad to be of service. Thanks for visiting.
Thanks a ton!!
Cord project went great! Excellent instructions! However, after starting, it no longer has any output. Double checked all electrical connectors, took it all apart again, and still no luck. Typical …
Thanks for the detailed instructions, the pictures are great. Saved me a lot of time. I was able to skip steps 12 & 13 (removing the fuel tubes and connector) there is enough room to get every thing out with them still connected. The frame bolts were very tight in step 14, I needed an impact driver to get one out. I also added 2 turns to the starter coil, 1 wasn’t enough.
Thanks a ton! Nice to see what I’m getting into. Great little generator deserves some TLC.
great job, thank you!
Just followed the directions. It worked perfectly to fix my starting cord. Thanks so much
Awesome. We’re glad it helped you out. Thanks for visiting.
awesome..worked for me, i used 1/8 inch cord from REI only 34 cents a foot
any quick fixes for the stuttering motor now…
Hmm… did you clean the air filter? Also, always use a high octane gas and try adding some Sea Foam Motor Treatment to help get the gunk out.
Thanks for visiting.
THIS, is how you do a tutorial.
Thank you!
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this detailed descriptionfor us all! I just changed the cord on mine and without your directions I don’t think I’d have been able to do it. Bless you!
Yes, really… Big Thank You! Being in Big Bend no dealers around here for sure. We have not tackled it yet but will very soon… Definitely feel more confident now.
A big happy shout out to you for your preparation of this information, and for making it available. Your clear written guidance coupled with the photographs made the change out of the starter rope as easy as child’s play. The hardest part was finding a 10mm socket! And oh…the side panel cowlings went back together easily enough with some manipulation, squeezing twisting and the occasional expletive! Thanks so much!
I understand about the expletives. My wife told me I had to make dinner for every one I spouted. Needless to say she ate good for a few days after that starter rope replacement.
We are sailing in Haiti and I had not enough confidence to take the Honda Generator apart to fix the broken starter cord till I found your website. I copied it onto my iPad and followed your instructions step by step. Two things threw me for a loop for a short period. The first one was Step 7/10. The rubber insert around the handle screws rolled around the boat, but was found before I started putting things back together. It took me only a short time but then I figured where it belonged. The second item was Step 14, Remove Left Front Frame Screws. Because we have had the generator around salt water for several years, they did not want to come undone and the result was a shattering of the plastic frame. All is glued back together with Max1 glue (found at the Miami boat show), but a review of the frame showed that it could probably have been left alone and the tank removed by slightly bending the Left and Right frame parts apart. Before reassembly, all the screws and bolts received a good amount of Tef Gel, so the next time it will come apart nice and easy.
Anyway, your write-up made it a very doable project. I am very much indebted to you for showing such a clear way of repairing the generator. Thanks a million.
Henk
Thanks for the step by step instructions. The pictures help me alot.
With the tight phillips screws I have a certain amount of success using a 3/8 socket and a cordless impact.It hits the screws hard and fast. With minimal damage.
Thanks heaps guys. Followed your instructions to the letter and geny is back up ang going first try as always. Legends!!
Great Directions!!! Was able to do this in about a little over an hour! My handle screws were on the right side not the left, but no big deal! Thank You!!!!!
Ours has broken in the middle of nowhere, but luckily we have internet (high gain aerial fixed to the side of the caravan) and these instructions. Bottom frame Phillips studs are however not moving so presently have them soaking in WD40. Fingers crossed. May need to be brutal – drill them out! Had to improvise for the long 10 mm socket as had no extension for small 3/8 drive sockets. A large blade screwdriver did the trick.
By the way we are in Western Australia. I broke the plastic base trying to undo the Phillips studs, but some wire and the drill gave an adequate fix. Used an old shoe lace as the replacement cord. All working well now.
Hi Bob,
Glad you got it to work.
Thanks for the detailed tutorial…..I haven’t tried it yet, but having to pay $150 to have
the local Honda motorcycle dealer do it is a great incentive!
Also read all the previous replies for tips.
I like Bob’s idea of using a shoestring….Aussie ingenuity!
I’m up for it now.
Thanks mate! š
Thank you. Wait! Thank you very, very much. Whoa! Did I say thank you? Let me say it again. This is brilliant. Thank you.
Thank you for this information. I live a couple miles from the nearest road and 100 miles from the nearest Honda parts store. My cord broke, on a Sunday of all days, and I had it fixed in about 1.5 hours using your instructions.
60 minutes flat, thank you! My only input is that you don’t need a deep socket 10mm, just regular socket with an extension works fine. And a battery-powered impact driver works even better. Thanks again!
Thanks for the instructions and great photos! Much better than watching someone drone on for 45 minutes on YouTube. However, it would be good if we could address the real problem. Anybody know a good way to keep the cord from fraying at the starter case port? Or know of a cord that will take it? Otherwise, we all should plan on shortening or replacing it every 200-300 hours due to the vibration of the port ring against the cord. Just a little flaw in the design. Someone posted a “sort of” fix on YouTube with a nylon patch wrapped with thread on the cord at the point of contact but it doesn’t look like it will last.
Thanks again. Gotta go change both my cords now. If I figure out a fix, I’ll post it.
very helpful details and step by step thank you!!!!
Yo thanks so much!! On point
Thanks Guys,
This illustration was spot on and the pictures help out.
Thank you,
Sean Golden
Extremely helpful and great guidance for doing this fix. I have this page bookmarked since I am sure this will be needed again. Just a useful note for everyone, I saw the fuel line (the long one that was left connected when the fuel tank was removed) has a bad rub spot on it. Wrapped it with some old heater hose to lengthen the life of the fuel line. This generator rides on back of a semi so I can’t afford for it to be at a dealer for a week or two. Thanks a bunch guys!!!
Very nicely done , I’m about to tackle it
Thanks, very much very clear and complete instructions made a difficult job easy.
I am at our camp in Maine and last night at 5:30 the generator stopped. I walked over to restart it and the pull cord had frayed. I quickly found this site and it saved me. There are no stores that I could had gotten to for replacement line (used the paracord) and I was running out of daylight. Two things; you can use a regular 10mm socket vs. an deep socket, but you need an extension ( note: a Husqvarna adjustment tool also happens to be 10mm) and also the frame screws that held the fuel tank in place required my cordless drill in hammer mode. I think they had Loctite on the screws. It took me two hours from start to finish, which was 30 minutes before dark. Thank you very much for the information and the shop manual!!!
Well, itās Walt again. After two years and about 1000 hours more use, the pull cord had to be replaced tonight. The outer jacket of the 550 cord wore through and I was holding on by strands. This time I stopped at the store and picked up some actual pull cord before the final break. I put the generator up on the bench and completely replaced the cord, from start to finish in 55 minutes. After taking 2 hours the first time and I had printed out your instructions, it was quick and easy.
Thank you once again for a great set of instructions.
Walt
Give it a try.
Thanks, it made life much easier.
I took the cover off my generator this spring only to find mice had nested inside the bloody thing and ate through the pull cord as well as some of the wiring. The instructions and photos here were an indispensable help in getting the thing apart as well as back together. THnks so much
Thanks for the great pictorial instructions. It works much better for me using a page like yours than trying to figure it out watching a video.
I didn’t have to disconnect any of the fuel lines or wire connectors. Didn’t even remove the frame screws. I was able to sneak a 10mm combination wrench between the starter reel and the fuel tank to remove the attachment screws. Then I was able to work the reel out of the right side to replace the cord. Got it all back together with no extra screws laying around!
Again, Thanks! My generator is running right now, recharging my RV batteries down here in Arizona.
And one tip for you. I’ve found that there’s an area that wears, 3 or 4 inches from the pull handle. When it starts looking like it might break, I just pull that worn spot through the handle and re-tie it. The pull cord is shorter, but still works, and will double the life of the pull cord.
Have a good one,
Bill
My starter cord broke today without much warning! My 2000 is almost 20 years old, so i shouldn’t be surprised. Thanks for posting this…Dan
U do not have to take the entire Gen apart. My goodness. Take from cover off. Reach threw the side and unplug the front cover. Take two handle screws out. Open it enough to pull tank out the way. And u can get to the three bolts on the real. Fix then replace.
Hi David, would love to see photos of an easier way to do this.
Thanks! I own two of these, and maintain a third…
#1 took about 65 minutes, #2 took 45, and #3 took exactly 30. Easy peasy after the first one! Thanks again for the great write up and link to the Bible!
Yeah, good stuff. I kind of like availing myself of both written documentation and youtube videos, where possible. My cord finally broke at a bad time, of course, about a month ago, but at least I wasn’t surprised. I am gearing up to do the job soon, thus my finding your nice documentation here. I’ve split it (them, actually) all open multiple times already though, for this and that, so I’m dreading it far more than fearing it. I’m pretty detail oriented though, so I like to have my ducks in a row on things. Which brings me to my only gripe about your documentation. You should have given the Honda part number for the actual Honda replacement cord for this exact Honda generator, which is, I have found, 28462-Z07-004, so that those not forced, or inclined, to improvise varying degrees of substandard result, can easily just order the correct cord meeting the exact specifications of the Honda engineers who designed it. Shoelaces in a pinch, sure, but otherwise, engineering is a precision thing, and thus the more precise one is in pursuing it, the better one’s results (there are many different types of “paracord”, for example). Anyway, providing it sure would have saved me a lot of time and hassle, and seems like a glaring omission to me, at least. Hopefully my providing it here, will save other less “hold my beer while I git er done” types some aggravation. Notwithstanding, shortly after my cord arrives, I’ll git er done myself… correctly. š
Uh, who designed it poorly in this one regard, I mean. lol
Okay, fine. So there a couple more well known flaws, but ,all in all, it’s a fantastic generator, as we all know. Meh. Nothing’s perfect.
Very clear instructions. Thank you
Thank you. I ended up with t extra screws, but everything worked out.
I see that pull cord diameter sizes range from 3mm to 8mm. What pull cord diameter size is recommended for the Honda EU2000i?
We used a standard paracord for ours. It was all we could afford at the time. It’s still working great and no fraying.
I replaced mine in June 2016 with 550 para cord. It was after hours on the weekend. Needed to improvise and overcome. It has worked faithfully, however, the outer jacket is starting to fray. So I need to do it again. This time I will use the correct cord.
So far Walt, out paracord has held up. Thanks for visiting.
anyone seeing this the permanent fix is dyneema cord talked about elswear make sure to read up on special knot needed for dyneema this cord will outlast the genarator
Hardware store Nylon Paracord – $6.00 for 50ft x 5/32 inches works great. No fraying after many 100s of pulls!
I’ve been a professional mechanic for 30 years. I’ve never had to deal with these things in my life until now. Thanks a ton for the great post! Saved my life!
Thank you for the great instructions! Without them it would have taken me many hours to get to the starter reel. I will be inspecting that cord for fraying from now on and I’ll tie it off a little shorter until it’s too short!
Update: I have an EU2000I purchased in 2013. Between the left and right side handles at the back end there is a shock absorber assembly that can come loose and bounce away when the sides are separated. There is provision for same at the front end but the ass’y was not present.
Thanks so much for the detailed pictures.
They were very helpful to replace the pull rope.
I too did not need to remove the gas tank but I had a helper.
My son replaced the pull cord on his Honda EU2000i, now it won’t start could it be an electrical connector he missed when reassembling it. Any thoughts would be very helpful.
What size pull cord do I need to replace mine? I have the same eu2000i on the generator but I can’t find the specs on the diameter and length of the cord.
We used regular paracord that you can get at any hardware store. The length is determined against the one you are replacing with a few extra inches for good measure. Hope that helps.
I have used 550 Para cord in the past, the first time, but replaced it the following year with the cord from a local chainsaw shop that sell it by the foot. I just told them what I had and he pulled it off a spool. It has been going strong not for several years.
My Honda eu2000 recoil rope is going to be replaced in the VERY near future. I appreciate the information.
Thank you. very helpful!
Great article, the pictures helped us move through the dismantle and assembly easily, less than an hour and started it up with a quick tug! Thanks